Stu's email address is stumail@earthlink.net.

 

"In Search of Good Craft Beer!" is the third column in a series on the six brewpubs of the Upper Peninsula: Lake Superior Brewing Co., Grand Marais; Tahquamenon Falls Brewery & Pub, near Paradise; The Vierling Restaurant & Marquette Harbor Brewery, Marquette; Jasper Ridge Brewery, Ishpeming; Library Bar & Restaurant, Houghton; and Hereford and Hops, Escanaba. What has nine craft beers on tap, great food, friendly service and a panoramic view of Lake Superior? Answer: The Vierling Restaurant and Marquette Harbor Brewery in Marquette, Michigan. You read correctly, nine styles of craft beer on tap. If you can't find a beer you like here, you're just not looking. Brewmaster Derek Anderson, better known as "Chum," started out in 1986 as a cook at the Vierling, then when the brewery was added in 1995, became the brewmaster. Chum is passionate about brewing beer. That's right--you just read the words "Chum" and "beer" in the same sentence. When you get him talking about his hand-crafted beer he goes into a focused zone rattling off brewing ingredients, chemistry, cleaning practices, yeast mitosis theories, then catches himself--a little self-conscious--that he's getting too technical. But he's not. As a homebrewer and fan of craft beers I enjoy the in-depth conversation. Located in a vintage red-brick building in downtown Marquette, the Vierling is owned and operated by entrepreneurs Terry and Kristi Doyle. Terry, who is ever-present at the restaurant, has a deep passion for his business that was evident from the moment I spoke with him on the phone to set up the interview. The business' namesake is Martin Vierling, who opened a saloon in the same location in 1883. In 1890, Martin retired and his son, Louis, took over the thriving saloon and social epicenter. In 1917, prohibition brought an unfortunate end to the popular Vierling. Since then, the building has gone through many incarnations. In 1985, Terry and Kristi purchased it, renovated it and nine months later reopened the Vierling. In 1996, they added the brewery downstairs making it one of Michigan's first brewpubs. The renovation entailed close attention to historic detail, including a one hundred-year-old oak bar, stained glass, oil paintings, a collection of breweriana and large windows overlooking the harbor. One of the more intriguing features are three "over-under gas/electric" light fixtures from the 1800s. In some other light fixtures, the amber colored bulbs where too bright, so Terry now routinely paints the bulbs with white spray paint to achieve just the right amber tone and ambiance for the room. Now that's attention to detail! But back to Brewmaster Chum. When the five-barrel brewing system, which was manufactured in Hungary, was installed, the dealer representative showed Chum how to brew three batches, then he was on his own. Since then, he has read and researched brewing thoroughly and is pretty much self taught. Through research, trial and error and on-the-job training, Chum has created the repertoire of craft beers now enjoyed by the brewpubs many loyal customers. Regularly on tap are: Brown Ale, Blueberry Wheat, Plank Road Pale Ale, Canadian Blond Ale, Landlooker Honey Wheat, Capt. Ripley's Red Ale, Spear's Tug Stout, Peter White Peach Wheat and Belgian Wit. The Blueberry Wheat is clearly the flagship brand and is served in a tall pilsner glass with several blueberry sprinkled in at the last moment. Terry says it started out as a seasonal brew, but public demand has caused it to be available year round. While all the styles have a clear, crisp, distinctive flavor, perhaps the most interesting is the Belgian Wit, which is a white wheat beer. Being a fan of Belgian beers, this is a pretty close approximation to an authentic Belgian white wheat ale. It's very tasty and a higher alcohol content than most American ales. If you've never tried a Belgian-style ale, now's the time. As for the local college students from Northern Michigan University and their interest in craft beers, Terry says that after nearly eight years, "They are only now just starting to appreciate it." My visit to the Vierling was at 8 p.m. on a Tuesday night and the place was packed with customers. Fresh and homemade are key words in describing the food and beer at the Vierling, which offers an extensive lunch and dinner menu,including a variety of daily specials, steaks, seafood, whitefish, pastas, appetizers, homemade soups, salad dressing and desserts.  They also have a well-stocked wine cellar. I had the cajun-style ribs, which were cooked to perfection with a zesty barbecue sauce and served with a side of pasta. I recommend this entree. Terry says that when customers leave the Vierling he wants them to feel like "they came to some place genuine...the real thing." Terry and Kristi are parlaying the success of the Vierling into a second restaurant in Marquette to be called "The Union Grill," and located south of town on Hwy. 41 in the former location of the Pizza Hut. He describes his new restaurant as, "Fast casual; Where fresh and fast unite." As for the popularity of the Vierling for customers and the many longtime employees, Terry says, "We make it fun--that's the secret." Well, the secret's out, so treat yourself to something special. Make the trek to the Vierling for a fun and nostalgic atmosphere, fine food, and some fresh craft ales and lagers, made by a guy named Chum, who drives a blue 1966 Pontiac GTO. And no--he does not have a mullet--thank you. The Vierling is located at 119 South Front St., corner of Main St., in Marquette. For more information, visit their website at: www.vierling.com.